Watches and Wonders 2024 witnessed Grand Seiko’s impressive showcase of their latest offerings. Among them, a hand-wound Evolution 9 movement variant stood out, alongside elegant dress watches and sporty models celebrating a Spring Drive milestone. The collection featured a dazzling high jewelry creation, three refined dress watches and three dynamic sport watches. Some pieces embraced the sleek Evolution 9 aesthetic, while others embraced the brand’s distinctive angular case design inspired by its lion emblem. Each watch sought to evoke natural beauty and poetic themes through its color schemes, textured dials, and innovative features, inviting enthusiasts to delve deeper into their intricacies.

Let’s begin with the top-tier model, the SBGD215, a luxury timepiece that combines exquisite craftsmanship with precious jewels.

Model: SBGD215

The SBGD215, part of the “lion” themed collection, may surprise you with its jungle of gemstones that exude dazzling brilliance. Despite the lavish gem setting, it retains the signature case shape with angled lugs and the mane texture at the dial’s center, consistent with its thematic family. This model is another tribute to the anniversary of the 9R Spring Drive, produced in very limited quantities for discerning collectors with a taste for opulence. While it embodies characteristics of high jewelry watches, maintaining bold dimensions akin to its Sport watch counterparts, this timepiece stands out as a large 44.5mm diameter, measuring 14.4mm in thickness, crafted from 950 platinum, and adorned with a total of 293 stones (including 148 diamonds and 145 sapphires) on its case and dial. Limited to just eight pieces, this watch is truly special and deserves an equally exceptional movement. Enter the 9R01, a hand-wound Spring Drive movement with three barrels providing an impressive eight days of power reserve, visible through a power reserve indicator on the movement, accessible via the caseback window.

Technical Specifics

• Movement: Hand-wound 9R01 Spring Drive
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve indicator (visible on the movement through the caseback window)
• Case: Dimensions of 44.5mm x 14.4mm; Crafted from 950 platinum
• Availability: Limited edition of 8 pieces
• Water-resistant: Up to 100m
• Price: USD 300,000

Evolution 9: SLGW002 & SLGW003

The above two models embodies Grand Seiko’s commitment to refining its design language and technical capabilities, elevating the brand’s position in the market. As part of this evolution, it has focused on creating a slimmer movement, a welcome enhancement. Now, they have unveiled a hand-wound movement, the 9SA4, based on the 9SA5, further advancing their watchmaking prowess. It has emphasized the meticulous development of the movement, focusing on enhancing the winding experience in terms of sound, tactile feedback, and visual appeal. When winding the watch, one can notice the distinctive click through the caseback, resembling the motion of a bird pecking into something. These attention to detail are what resonate with watch enthusiasts, capturing their hearts and admiration.

The SLGW003 is crafted from the brand’s Brilliant Hard Titanium alloy and the SLGW002 in luxurious rose gold. Both options showcase the popular birch bark-inspired textured dial, a design element that has been well-received in other models from the brand. These variants stand out as some of the most captivating offerings yet.

Technical Specifics:

• Caliber: Manual winding 9SA4; 80-hour power reserve; High-beat at 5Hz
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
• Case: Dimensions of 38.6mm x 9.95mm;
• Water-resistant: Up to 30m
• Availability: Titanium variant is unlimited, Rose gold variant is a limited edition of 80 pieces
• Price: USD 10,700 for titanium; USD 45,000 for rose gold

Evolution 9: SLGH021

Another addition in this line-up is a new model equipped with the 9SA5 automatic movement. Featuring a 40mm case crafted from Ever-Brilliant Steel, this model incorporates all the premium attributes of the Evolution 9 series while highlighting the brand’s renowned expertise in creating visually appealing yet minimalist and easy-to-read dials. In this iteration, the dial showcases a molded pattern reminiscent of rippling water, a design element also found in other watches from the brand but presented here in a subtle pale green hue. The inspiration for this specific shade of green stems from a river in the Genbi valley near the brand’s workshops.

Technical Specifics

• Caliber: Automatic 9SA5; 80-hour power reserve; High-beat at 5Hz
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
• Case: Dimensions of 40mm x 11.7mm; Crafted from Ever-Brilliant Steel;
• Water-resistant: Up to 100m
• Availability: Limited edition of 1,000 pieces
• Price: USD 10,400

New Grand Seiko First Re-creation 

This new Grand Seiko First re-creation maintains the elegant and refined style of the original while integrating advanced technologies and refined design elements for a contemporary interpretation. Limited in production, this model features an 18K rose gold case and a stunning navy-blue dial with a “starry night” theme, evoking a captivating portrayal of the night sky. The 18K gold indexes add a twinkling effect, enhancing the celestial ambiance. The modern touch of navy extends to the accompanying crocodile strap, complemented by an additional classic brown crocodile strap. Notably, it also includes a transparent caseback that showcases the beautiful Caliber movement.

Technical Specifics

• Caliber: Hand-wound 9S64; 72-hour power reserve
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
• Case: Dimensions of 39mm x 10.9mm; Crafted from 18k rose gold; transparent Caseback
• Water-resistant: Up to 30m
• Price: USD 26,500

Sport Chronograph 20th Anniversary SBGC275

A year after debuting the Tentagraph, which introduced a new design paradigm with a more traditional chronograph layout, Grand Seiko revisits the iconic form of its Spring Drive chronographs. This latest creation merges the distinctive “lion” theme, characterized by a large angular case and a dial texture inspired by a lion’s mane, with a deep red color scheme. The model commemorates 20 years since the introduction of the first 9R-family Spring Drive movements. While the dial pattern echoes other “lion” watches, Grand Seiko employed a new technique to achieve a shifting hue effect based on viewing angles. This innovative approach involves layers of nanoscale film applied through a patented process called “Optical Multilayer Coating,” utilizing PVD (physical vapor deposition). The subdials, also in the same color, feature sunburst finishes to create a striking contrast.

Technical Specifics

• Caliber: Automatic 9R96 Spring Drive chronograph GMT; 72-hour power reserve
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph, GMT
• Case: Dimensions of 44.5mm x 16.8mm; Crafted from High-Intensity Titanium;
• Water-resistant: Up to 200m
• Availability: Limited edition of 700 pieces
• Price: USD 13,400

Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307

The watches in this year’s Grand Seiko Sport collection continue to evolve from an established design, combining an angular case with a distinctive dial texture. Among Grand Seiko’s modern catalog, this case represents a contemporary and edgy aesthetic, drawing inspiration from the brand’s lion logo, used since its first wristwatch in 1960. The dial’s texture mimics a lion’s mane, while the angular lugs are likened to lions’ claws, embodying a king-of-the-jungle vibe. This GMT model joins an existing line-up featuring the “lion” elements, which includes a Spring Drive model and a chronograph (above model). Despite its substantial dimensions of 44.5mm width and 14.9mm thickness, the use of High-Intensity Titanium in both the case and bracelet helps offset its weight compared to heavier metals like steel.

Technical Specifics

• Caliber: Automatic 9R66 Spring Drive; 72-hour power reserve
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT, power reserve indicator
• Case: Dimensions of 44.5mm x 14.9mm; Crafted from High-Intensity Titanium;
• Water-resistant: up to 200m
• Availability: Unlimited production
• Price: USD 10,700

Sport Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ277

This timepiece stands out among this line-up for a couple of reasons. Firstly, it retains the traditional case shape, unlike the other Sport models. Secondly, it’s more reasonably priced below $10,000, making it more accessible to long-time Grand Seiko enthusiasts. However, despite its lower price point, it doesn’t compromise on quality, featuring a high-beat automatic GMT movement.

One of the distinctive features of the SBGJ277 is its green accents on the flange ring, sapphire-crystal bezel, and GMT hand, creating an interesting contrast and color scheme. Grand Seiko suggests that this color combination may evoke imagery of a green valley with snow-capped mountains in the background. From our perspective, it’s simply an exceptional sport watch. However, it’s worth noting that its substantial case size of 44.2mm in steel and therefore on the heavier side may require a strong larger wrist for comfortable wear.

Technical Specifics

• Caliber: Automatic 9S86 GMT; 55-hour power reserve; High-beat at 5Hz
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT, rotating 24-hour bezel
• Case: Dimensions of 44.2mm x 14.8mm; Crafted from steel;
• Availability: Unlimited production
• Water-resistant: Up to 200m
• Price: USD 6,800

The post Grand Seiko’ s Novelties at Watches and Wonders 2024 appeared first on Just a minute, ma'am | Jamm.

To be Honest, 7 days were really not enough to explore all the timepieces the participating maisons had to offer and my 7 days flew by in a whiff! Although I couldn’t discover ALL the timepieces from all the brands, I was happy to discover some Independent brands like Gronefeld, Chronoswiss, Louis Monet along with the other mighty ones like Rolex, Patek Philippe, JLC, Van Cleef and Arpels, Hermes and so on.

Every year launching new watches isn’t easy right ? From my interactions with brand head honchos and my understanding, I can tell you that every brand begins working on their new launches years in advance. For e.g brands would have already planned what will be launched in 2024 and 2025 in this year. The 2023 edition of Watches and Wonders saw many Novelties that were worth making note of. 

I must have seen several timepieces but few of the watches that were  truly exceptional to get added on my watch list, or the ones I would totally invest in, yes they are real investments for me, atleast! So here’s presenting the Big 10 

1) Vacheron Constantin- Patrimony Retrograde

Legendary brand- Vacheron Constantin, Best  known for its fine marriage of tradition, complication and aesthetics. Vacheron Constantin, Patrimony Retrograde day date in Platinum with salmon-coloured dial , was complicated yet so very sophisticated and minimalist in design. It’s approximately priced @ 70000 euros. Since I am on Vacheron I would also like to mention about Traditionnelle tourbillon retrograde date open face. This masterpiece is a delight  in Pink gold. 

2) Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection

I was mesmerized by the Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Hand-engraved Manual-winding Spring Drive Limited Edition in platinum 950 which is  limited to 50 pieces and do you know the price it is 80,000 euros ++

Vacheron covered, Grand Seiko covered. The next brand is surely a brand that is on every customer’s wish list is – yes, it is Rolex!  

3) Rolex- Perpetual 1908

The one that I would certainly get my hands on is the Perpetual 1908 39mm in the yellow gold version although the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 mm has been introduced for the first time in RLX titanium. This too is superb. Another timepiece from Rolex, would be without a doubt Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 mm – Time Stamped with Emotion  was also so cool and you must certainly check this out. It displays a new emotion each day. Interesting isn’t it ?

4) Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Colours

JLC’s Reverso One Precious Colours. It was so poetic and what craftsmanship with the enameling and gemsetting. It has taken 80 hours for an artist to enamel each of this timepiece and one would certainly get mesmerized with this piece. When I am on JLC I have to mention about Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179, a multiaxis tourbillon. This piece is worth approx half a million euros.

5) Panerai – Radiomir Annual Calendar PAM01432

 A brand known for the watches made for the Italian Navy – Panerai. 
Panerai introduced a new caliber in their Radiomir Annual Calendar PAM01432 produced in only 24 pieces, and I loved this special edition known as the Experience edition. It  features a sun-brushed burgundy shaded dial in a 45mm Platinum Tech case and has a black hand-dyed matte alligator strap. This burgundy coloured dial is so eye pleasing that I couldn’t get my eyes off it! 

6) Cartier – Tank Normale

Cartier, the most desired brand by women known for its heritage and creativity. When you think of Cartier watches, the first thing that comes to your mind is the Cartier Tank timepieces. This year, the brand added a complication to its iconic collection:  signature complications with a skeleton movement with the Tank Normale watch. It features a 24-hour complication marked by a sun and crescent moon, also skeletonised. While the minute hand turns around the dial in one hour, the hour hand goes round in 24 hours instead of 12 hours. It comes in 2 colours- The yellow gold on a brown strap and green alligator strap and platinum on a burgundy and grey alligator strap.

Platinum on a burgundy is what I would go for but this one is a masterpiece and comes in a limited edition. 

7) Patek Philippe- Aquanaut Luce Collection- II

Heard many Brand Spokespersons mentioning that women are increasingly demanding  complicated timepieces. This was music to my ears. I found Patek philippe ‘s Aquanaut Luce Collection,  a very practical and easy to use complication- Annual calendar which is complete with day, date and month and requires only one manual correction in a year. It is in rose gold and the bezel has a rounded octagonal shape. I tell you, this watch is simply elegant, sophisticated and yet complicated. 

8) Patek Philippe- 5178G-012, Grand Complications

Patek Philippe 5178G-012, – GRAND COMPLICATIONS has a beautiful blue coloured dial, and  a hand guilloche swirling pattern beneath grand-flue transparent enamel with gold applied breguet numerals. This is a grand complication. I say that because it is a minute repeater. It also comes with 2 Interchangeable straps, one in shiny peacock blue alligator leather and other in shiny orange alligator leather.

9) Bell & Ross –  BR 01 Cyber Skull Bronze

I discovered  Bell & Ross  BR 01 cyber skull bronze having a specific calibre 210. Its manual winding activates an automaton part and by turning the crown the jaw of the skull comes alive. This isn’t a horror watch but a technical masterpiece. Please get your hands on this one as it is a perfect combination of watchmaking, design and technology.

10) Zenith –  Pilot Big Date Flyback Ceramic Chronograph

Zenith always captures the spirit of aviation. This year it introduced the Pilot Big date flyback ceramic chronograph which changes the date in less than 0.03 secs. Now one can imagine this date change function in so little time that one is almost  virtually shifted  to a This watch is powered by  El Primero 3652 automatic calibre. 

My Big Ten were not so serious but fun & enriching isn’t it ? But my BIG 10 remains incomplete without Ulysse Nardin’s Freak one, Montblanc’s 1858 iced sea automatic and Roger Dubuis’s Monovertex split second’s chronograph watch. 

I was fortunate to also experience few interesting independent brands hence I would also like to also share some  timepieces that left me in awe and cannot be forgotten, first one was from U-boat and the other from Gronefeld  I know, in my last blog on  Trends, I Mentioned that small is the new big, but this massive watch dial in 55mm and with oil inside the case,  is certainly worth a look. The dial provided a 3D effect, the  Capsoil Doppio tempo watch by U-BOAT –  is truly an invention. The “Oil Immersion”- is the case is filled with an oil bath. There is a compensation bubble that is free to float on the dial. The oil bath and compensation bubble were a visual  delight indeed !!

I loved two watches from Gronefeld one was the Deltaworks, so very classy and yet cool as one can even swim with this watch. The other one was 1941 chronograph this one is the one which is sold out. It is a jumping minute chronograph and the movement has 408 parts. It also has a power reserve indicator. For This watch, one has to wait for more than 5 years. They are sold out for next 5 years and unable to take any more orders. I have given my request  

I freaked out, worked,  literally passed out, but all in all had fun discovering some of the world’s most spectacular timepieces. That was all from me! Let me know which ones your favorite? Write to us at hello@jammindia.com

The post #Novelties- The Big Ten from Watches and Wonders 2023 appeared first on Just a minute, ma'am | Jamm.