A New Beginning

One of the defining features of this year’s event was the brand-new setup. The 14 prestigious Maisons graced a redesigned Pavilion, revealing their latest collections. This two-story space embraced transparency, openness, and an abundance of light – a fitting backdrop to showcase the artistry of watchmaking. The participating Maisons included:

1. A. Lange & Söhne
2. Arnold & Son
3. Baume & Mercier
4. Cartier
5. Charriol
6. IWC Schaffhausen
7. Jaeger LeCoultre
8. Panerai
9. Piaget
10. Roger Dubuis
11. Speake-Marin
12. Uboat Italo Fontana
13. Ulysse Nardin
14. Vacheron Constantin

Beyond Timepieces

While Watches & Wonders rightfully centers on the exquisite timepieces, it’s essential to acknowledge the impressive corporate booths. These booths were meticulously planned, requiring substantial logistics and investments. Some of them redefined the standard for watch exhibitions.

In a market where some renowned brands opt not to participate, others are determined to make a lasting impression in the Chinese market. The presence of numerous High-end Luxury Watch Authorized Dealers in this region, underscores the immense potential of the Southeast Asian demographic. Projections suggest that luxury watch sales in China could reach a staggering $36 billion by the end of 2023. Consequently, a local watch show becomes a strategic opportunity to reassert their presence.

Aesthetic Elegance

The event’s aesthetic theme was clean and minimalistic, a departure from the official and industrial designs of the past. Instead, vast plain walls in serene white and soft presence set the stage. The overall ambiance resonated with the sophistication of high-end brand boutiques found in upscale malls or airports.

A Glimpse into Iconic Watch Brands

Here is a closer look at some iconic watch brands and their standout offerings at Watches & Wonders 2023:

A. Lange & Söhne

A play of light and dark themes welcomed visitors to A. Lange & Söhne’s booth, featuring a giant watch replica that offered a rare glimpse into the intricate details of modern timepieces. Their highlight was the Platinum Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar, a 950 platinum masterpiece with a 41.9mm case. The sleek black dial features an iconic outsize date and a moon-phase display with a day/night transition. The in-house L021.3 self-winding caliber, visible through a sapphire crystal caseback, provides a 50-hour power reserve. This boutique-exclusive model exudes luxury and precision.

Panerai

Panerai’s booth at Watches & Wonders Shanghai 2023 stood out for its captivating design, featuring dark wood and evocative imagery. While it exuded a nostalgic charm, the booth’s interior transformed into a trendy bar-like setting.

Panerai introduced notable timepieces, including:

1. Luminor Due Luna TuttoOro PAM01504 (38mm): This model features a unique Goldtech case, giving it a red undertone. The mother-of-pearl dial, lume-filled indexes, and moon phase indicator create an elegant aesthetic, powered by the P.900/MP automatic caliber with a three-day reserve.
2. Luminor Due PAM01423 (42mm): The first in its series with a striking yellow-gold case and a dark green dial. It offers 5 bars of water resistance, a three-day power reserve, and a dark green alligator strap.
3. Luminor Due Prada Re-Nylon: A sustainable collaboration with Prada, offering slim, sleek timepieces with Re-Nylon straps. Available in various dial and strap options for versatility and sustainability.

Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin’s booth resembled an upscale lounge, setting the stage for the unveiling of the Freak [X OPS]. This innovative timepiece boasts a 43mm titanium case, bezel, and crown with a sleek black DLC coating. Khaki green carbon fiber composite flanks, extending to the matching indices and lume-filled handset on the dial, enhance its rugged charm. The UN-230 Manufacture caliber powers the watch, offering an impressive 72-hour power reserve. The flying carousel movement, illuminated by Super-LumiNova, rotates on its axis at 21,600 vibrations per hour.

Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin’s booth exuded a sense of neatness and luxury, resembling an expensive lounge. They introduced two Traditionnelle manual-winding watches in a captivating green colorway. One comes with diamonds in a 33mm case, while the other is a 39mm version with a small-second sub-counter. Both watches feature elegant sage green sunburst dials that harmonize with polished pink gold cases and dark green alligator straps. These timepieces pay homage to monochrome dials from the 19th century while adopting a contemporary approach.

Piaget

Piaget introduced the Altiplano Ultimate Concept in Midnight Blue, continuing its tradition of ultra-fine timepieces. With a mere 2mm thickness and a 41mm cobalt alloy case, it maintains the signature mesmerizing dial design featuring Super-LumiNova constellations. The new reference showcases a minimalistic dial in shades of midnight blue, silver, and pink gem accents, complemented by a matching alligator strap.

Speake Marin

Speake-Marin presented the Academic Rouge, adding a bold and vibrant touch to its Academic series. This timepiece showcases a vibrant red lacquered dial in Pantone 188C, coupled with large Roman numerals with matte finishing and Super-LumiNova coating. The small seconds indicator between 12 and 3 o’clock adds functionality. Encased in a grade 5 titanium Piccadilly case, it is available in 38mm and 42mm sizes, both housing the SMA03 automatic caliber with fully integrated micro-rotors, providing up to 52 hours of power reserve.

Watches & Wonders Shanghai 2023 was not just an event; it was an experience that left a lasting impression. With 12,000 unique visitors over five days, including nearly 5,000 end clients and public visitors during the weekend, the watch community came together in force. Social media played a pivotal role in expanding the event’s reach to an audience of 75 million people.

This year’s Watches & Wonders Shanghai 2023 reaffirmed its position as an essential platform for exchange, education, and engagement in today’s fine watchmaking global community. It celebrated not just the passage of time, but the artistry, innovation, and craftsmanship that make each watch a masterpiece

The post Watches & Wonders Shanghai 2023: A Celebration of Time appeared first on Just a minute, ma'am | Jamm.

The Vibrant Saffron – Rolex Day-Date 36

The Rolex Day date 36 exudes a bold and resilient character just like the saffron colour that symbolises courage and sacrifice. The distinctive dial catches the eye as it evokes a sense of vibrancy and energy. It features hour markers in 18 ct gold, set with 32 diamonds, and a Roman VI and IX in 18 ct gold, set with 24 diamonds.Crafted in an 18ct yellow gold and adorned with a President bracelet in the same material,the watch exudes an air of luxury and gleams in elegance. The stunning diamonds that grace the bezel add a touch of glamour and radiance to this impeccable timepiece.

The Tranquil White – Panerai Luminor Due Luna Rossa

Just like how the white colour in the Indian flag embodies peace and unity, the white elements of the Luminor Due Luna Rossa watch by Panerai come together harmoniously to create a graceful and clean design. The watch is inspired by the technical innovation and the majestic beauty of the yachting world. Crafted in polished steel, the watch boasts a minimalist charm with its alluring white dial and matching white strap. The date is displayed at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock. The design of this watch whispers sophistication through simplicity. 

The Rich Green – Chopard Happy Sport

Green, a colour that stands for prosperity and growth is brought out beautifully in the Happy Sport Watch by Chopard. The watch is brought to life as the collection’s iconic diamonds dance elegantly atop the green backdrop. These free spirited diamonds, happier when they are free, showcase that women can be who they aspire to be and prosper in all fields when they feel independent and liberated. Crafted in an 18 ct rose gold and stainless steel, this timepiece comes with a green alligator leather strap. 

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To be Honest, 7 days were really not enough to explore all the timepieces the participating maisons had to offer and my 7 days flew by in a whiff! Although I couldn’t discover ALL the timepieces from all the brands, I was happy to discover some Independent brands like Gronefeld, Chronoswiss, Louis Monet along with the other mighty ones like Rolex, Patek Philippe, JLC, Van Cleef and Arpels, Hermes and so on.

Every year launching new watches isn’t easy right ? From my interactions with brand head honchos and my understanding, I can tell you that every brand begins working on their new launches years in advance. For e.g brands would have already planned what will be launched in 2024 and 2025 in this year. The 2023 edition of Watches and Wonders saw many Novelties that were worth making note of. 

I must have seen several timepieces but few of the watches that were  truly exceptional to get added on my watch list, or the ones I would totally invest in, yes they are real investments for me, atleast! So here’s presenting the Big 10 

1) Vacheron Constantin- Patrimony Retrograde

Legendary brand- Vacheron Constantin, Best  known for its fine marriage of tradition, complication and aesthetics. Vacheron Constantin, Patrimony Retrograde day date in Platinum with salmon-coloured dial , was complicated yet so very sophisticated and minimalist in design. It’s approximately priced @ 70000 euros. Since I am on Vacheron I would also like to mention about Traditionnelle tourbillon retrograde date open face. This masterpiece is a delight  in Pink gold. 

2) Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection

I was mesmerized by the Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Hand-engraved Manual-winding Spring Drive Limited Edition in platinum 950 which is  limited to 50 pieces and do you know the price it is 80,000 euros ++

Vacheron covered, Grand Seiko covered. The next brand is surely a brand that is on every customer’s wish list is – yes, it is Rolex!  

3) Rolex- Perpetual 1908

The one that I would certainly get my hands on is the Perpetual 1908 39mm in the yellow gold version although the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 mm has been introduced for the first time in RLX titanium. This too is superb. Another timepiece from Rolex, would be without a doubt Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 mm – Time Stamped with Emotion  was also so cool and you must certainly check this out. It displays a new emotion each day. Interesting isn’t it ?

4) Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Colours

JLC’s Reverso One Precious Colours. It was so poetic and what craftsmanship with the enameling and gemsetting. It has taken 80 hours for an artist to enamel each of this timepiece and one would certainly get mesmerized with this piece. When I am on JLC I have to mention about Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179, a multiaxis tourbillon. This piece is worth approx half a million euros.

5) Panerai – Radiomir Annual Calendar PAM01432

 A brand known for the watches made for the Italian Navy – Panerai. 
Panerai introduced a new caliber in their Radiomir Annual Calendar PAM01432 produced in only 24 pieces, and I loved this special edition known as the Experience edition. It  features a sun-brushed burgundy shaded dial in a 45mm Platinum Tech case and has a black hand-dyed matte alligator strap. This burgundy coloured dial is so eye pleasing that I couldn’t get my eyes off it! 

6) Cartier – Tank Normale

Cartier, the most desired brand by women known for its heritage and creativity. When you think of Cartier watches, the first thing that comes to your mind is the Cartier Tank timepieces. This year, the brand added a complication to its iconic collection:  signature complications with a skeleton movement with the Tank Normale watch. It features a 24-hour complication marked by a sun and crescent moon, also skeletonised. While the minute hand turns around the dial in one hour, the hour hand goes round in 24 hours instead of 12 hours. It comes in 2 colours- The yellow gold on a brown strap and green alligator strap and platinum on a burgundy and grey alligator strap.

Platinum on a burgundy is what I would go for but this one is a masterpiece and comes in a limited edition. 

7) Patek Philippe- Aquanaut Luce Collection- II

Heard many Brand Spokespersons mentioning that women are increasingly demanding  complicated timepieces. This was music to my ears. I found Patek philippe ‘s Aquanaut Luce Collection,  a very practical and easy to use complication- Annual calendar which is complete with day, date and month and requires only one manual correction in a year. It is in rose gold and the bezel has a rounded octagonal shape. I tell you, this watch is simply elegant, sophisticated and yet complicated. 

8) Patek Philippe- 5178G-012, Grand Complications

Patek Philippe 5178G-012, – GRAND COMPLICATIONS has a beautiful blue coloured dial, and  a hand guilloche swirling pattern beneath grand-flue transparent enamel with gold applied breguet numerals. This is a grand complication. I say that because it is a minute repeater. It also comes with 2 Interchangeable straps, one in shiny peacock blue alligator leather and other in shiny orange alligator leather.

9) Bell & Ross –  BR 01 Cyber Skull Bronze

I discovered  Bell & Ross  BR 01 cyber skull bronze having a specific calibre 210. Its manual winding activates an automaton part and by turning the crown the jaw of the skull comes alive. This isn’t a horror watch but a technical masterpiece. Please get your hands on this one as it is a perfect combination of watchmaking, design and technology.

10) Zenith –  Pilot Big Date Flyback Ceramic Chronograph

Zenith always captures the spirit of aviation. This year it introduced the Pilot Big date flyback ceramic chronograph which changes the date in less than 0.03 secs. Now one can imagine this date change function in so little time that one is almost  virtually shifted  to a This watch is powered by  El Primero 3652 automatic calibre. 

My Big Ten were not so serious but fun & enriching isn’t it ? But my BIG 10 remains incomplete without Ulysse Nardin’s Freak one, Montblanc’s 1858 iced sea automatic and Roger Dubuis’s Monovertex split second’s chronograph watch. 

I was fortunate to also experience few interesting independent brands hence I would also like to also share some  timepieces that left me in awe and cannot be forgotten, first one was from U-boat and the other from Gronefeld  I know, in my last blog on  Trends, I Mentioned that small is the new big, but this massive watch dial in 55mm and with oil inside the case,  is certainly worth a look. The dial provided a 3D effect, the  Capsoil Doppio tempo watch by U-BOAT –  is truly an invention. The “Oil Immersion”- is the case is filled with an oil bath. There is a compensation bubble that is free to float on the dial. The oil bath and compensation bubble were a visual  delight indeed !!

I loved two watches from Gronefeld one was the Deltaworks, so very classy and yet cool as one can even swim with this watch. The other one was 1941 chronograph this one is the one which is sold out. It is a jumping minute chronograph and the movement has 408 parts. It also has a power reserve indicator. For This watch, one has to wait for more than 5 years. They are sold out for next 5 years and unable to take any more orders. I have given my request  

I freaked out, worked,  literally passed out, but all in all had fun discovering some of the world’s most spectacular timepieces. That was all from me! Let me know which ones your favorite? Write to us at hello@jammindia.com

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Grand Seiko – Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8-Day Jewellery Watch: SBGD213

This watch comes with Diamonds, blue sapphires, and Platinum 950 is inspired by the white lion.  The powerful profile of the lion has been an enduring symbol of Grand Seiko ever since the first Grand Seiko introduced in 1960, when a gold medallion depicting a lion graced the case back. The strength and power of the white lion is brought to life through the jeweller’s art, graced by blue sapphires in honour of Grand Seiko’s signature colour. This piece combines the precision of Spring Drive, high legibility through carefully placed gems, and exquisite artistry and craftsmanship.

The center of the dial is mother-of-pearl in Grand Seiko’s signature blue. The case, bezel and dial have 266 diamonds and 27 blue sapphires, all set by hand.  The lugs speak to the power of the lion. Diamonds are embedded on the case and baguette-cut diamonds adorn the bezel. The diamonds are set to create a single, flat surface. A single brilliant-cut blue sapphire is set into the crown. The watch comes with a leather strap and has a three-fold clasp with push-button release. It is a limited edition with just eight pieces.

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La Panthére de Cartier

Cartier’s iconic panther fiercely magnetizes this jewellery watch. This La Panthère model is a bold, graphic, and sculptural watch which depicts the panther closing its jaws on a black lacquered dial. This piece in white gold with diamond pave displays a fierce gaze with emerald eyes. Each element in the watch, the panther’s nose, cheeks, eyes or pointed ears are designed in three dimensions.

The head seamlessly connects to an integrated bracelet. Equipped with an ingenious system and no visible hinges, it hugs the wearer as close to the wrist as possible, magnetically and seamlessly. Available in two variants attired in a body of yellow gold, rose gold or white gold with a diamond pave model. The yellow gold or rose gold variant is speckled with black lacquer with tsavorite eyes. Recalling the Art Deco origins of the Reverso, the reverse side of the pink gold case is set with white diamonds and black onyx in an intricate pattern. Vertical rows of diamonds wrap around the convex sides of the case and frame the dial. The centre of the dial is set with white diamonds. Each of the tiny links that form the supple chain have been set with diamonds. 

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Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 4997/200R

Designed for women, the new Calatrava self-winding watch is a reinterpretation of a great classic. It catches the eye with a rose-gold case and a dial and strap decked out in purple.

The dial, embossed with a pattern of concentric waves, is coated with more than fifty layers of translucent lacquer, creating a mesmerizing sense of depth. The watch case is adorned with 76 diamonds set on the bezel and houses the caliber 240 ultra-thin self-winding movement.
The shade of the dial is echoed by the purple leather strap with satinated finish and rose gold prong buckle.

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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS – LUDO SECRET WATCH

Inspired by the Ludo bracelet, the Ludo Secret watch is from the high jewellery collection of Van Cleef & Arpels. 

Created in 1934, this aesthetic watch was named after the nickname of Louis Arpels, one of the Brand’s founding members. Shaped like a belt – it was the fashion accessory for any daring woman in the 1930s.

This watch comes in Rose gold with minutely set pink sapphires. The bracelet is made of flexible brick-pattern meshwork reminiscent of a belt. The rose gold mesh links are assembled by hand. The watch comes with guilloché white mother-of-pearl dial. The guilloché white mother-of-pearl dial is visible thanks to a simultaneous press of the two motifs in pink sapphires.

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JAEGER-LECOULTRE – THE REVERSO SECRET NECKLACE

This piece reinterprets the Reverso’s Art Deco origins. A union of jewellery arts, rare handcrafts and fine watchmaking is what makes the piece a must have. With the Reverso Secret Necklace, Jaeger-LeCoultre takes the creative legacy to a new level. One could say that it is a jewel that Tells Time.

The Reverso Secret Necklace transforms into a graceful feminine sautoir, or long necklace. The cordonnet, the original black textile bracelet (literal translation: fine or small cord) seen on Reverso models of the 1930s has been reimagined as a supple chain of intricate diamond-set links and polished onyx beads from which the Reverso is suspended. Two pendants of polished onyx charms add panache to this new way of wearing the time.

Recalling the Art Deco origins of the Reverso, the reverse side of the pink gold case is set with white diamonds and black onyx in an intricate pattern. Vertical rows of diamonds wrap around the convex sides of the case and frame the dial. The centre of the dial is set with white diamonds. Each of the tiny links that form the supple chain have been set with diamonds. 

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ROLEX Oyster Perpetual DAY-DATE 36

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 watch brings an unexpected and unique creative twist by displaying a new emotion each day. The watch brings a spontaneous element into the wearers’ daily life while giving them a way of reading time with their changing mood.The day window at 12 o’clock presents a calendar of inspirational words such as Happy’, ‘Eternity’, ‘Gratitude’, ‘Peace’, ‘Faith’, ‘Love’ and ‘Hope’.  While the date window displays a repertoire of emotions expressed in 31 Emojis designed especially for this model. 

The dial features a colourful motif suggesting the idea that Life is a Puzzle that we put together piece by piece and day by day. This intricate dial works with an array of colours including Turquoise Blue, Red, Fuchsia, Orange, Green and Yellow pieces that fit together on a single background, each representing one of the key moments in life. The hours are marked by 10 baguette-cut sapphires in six different hues set according to the main colour of the dial. Turquoise Blue on the 18 ct yellow gold and 18 ct white gold versions, orange on the watch in 18 ct Everose gold.

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With 48 exhibiting Maisons, including some of the main players of the watch industry, every brand is ready to unveil their novelties, highlight their exceptional creations and pieces, their craftsmanship and their know-how. What is unique this year is that April 1st and 2nd is open for visitors to come and marvel at the finest wrist arts!

Watchmaking is a passionate world, steeped in history and exploring it is a sensory experience. For the first time, Watches and Wonders will be taking over the center of Geneva to share this passion with everyone. With exhibitions planned in the watch boutiques, guided visits, and conferences. An evening of festivities on Thursday 30 March, with street artists, bands, and a concert from an electro star is also planned.

So stay tuned to Jamm, to know about the Novelties from the Exhibiting Brands and my personal experience. 

Exhibiting brands in Watches And Wonders 2023

• A. Lange & Söhne 
• Alpina Watches 
• Angelus 
• Arnold & Son 
• Baume & Mercier 
• Beauregard 
• Bell & Ross 
• Cartier 
• Chanel 
• Charles Zuber 
• Charriol 
• Chopard 
• Chronoswiss 
• Cyrus Genève
• Czapek & Cie 
• Ferdinand Berthoud 
• Frederique Constant 
• Grand Seiko 
• Grönefeld 
• Hautlence 
• Hermès 
• Hublot 
• Hysek 
• IWC Schaffhausen 
• Jaeger-LeCoultre 
• Laurent Ferrier 
• Louis Moinet 
• Montblanc 
• Oris 
• Panerai 
• Parmigiani Fleurier 
• Patek Philippe 
• Pequignet 
• Piaget 
• Rebellion Timepieces 
• Ressence 
• Roger Dubuis 
• Rolex 
• Rudis Sylva 
• Speake-Marin 
• TAG Heuer 
• Trilobe 
• Tudor 
• U-Boat 
• Ulysse Nardin 
• Vacheron Constantin 
• Van Cleef & Arpels 
• Zenith

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