As we stepped into April, the global watch community—collectors, enthusiasts, journalists, and retailers alike—turned their attention to Geneva, eagerly anticipating the unveiling of horological masterpieces at Watches & Wonders 2025 and Geneva Watch Week. The annual event, as always, continues to grow in scale and significance, drawing industry giants and independent artisans alike, all ready to showcase their latest innovations.
This year, the exhibition featured an expanded roster of 60 esteemed participants, with Bvlgari making its debut alongside other independent brands. The excitement has been building for months. New creations, years in the making were finally revealed.
So many remarkable timepieces made their debut last week, two brands captured my attention: Bulgari and Vacheron Constantin—names that need no introduction.
Bvlgari’s Grand Debut at Watches & Wonders 2025
For the first time, Bvlgari participates in Watches & Wonders, marking a significant milestone in its watchmaking journey. Its presence at the event underscores its dual identity as a Roman Jeweler and a Swiss Watchmaker, showcasing its rich heritage and unwavering innovation. The spotlight of Bvlgari’s debut is the unveiling of two groundbreaking timepieces. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon sets a 10th world record for ultra-thin watchmaking, reaffirming its status as an icon of the 21st century. Meanwhile, the Serpenti Aeterna reinterprets the brand’s legendary serpent motif in a bold, forward-looking jewelry creation.
CEO Jean-Christophe Babin stresses Bvlgari’s decade-long leadership in watchmaking, blending Swiss innovation with Italian creativity. As the Maison celebrates 25 years under LVMH, it continues to push the boundaries of design and fine watchmaking.
Bvlgari’s exhibition space at Watches & Wonders immerses visitors in its Roman heritage and contemporary vision. With an architecture inspired by the Razionalista Roman style and seven curated showcases, the display narrates the brand’s journey through its most iconic creations.
As we explore these exquisite timepieces, Bvlgari’s evolution in haute horology becomes ever more evident, where tradition meets groundbreaking innovation.
BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Beyond achieving a new record in ultra-thin watchmaking, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon serves as a ‘Genuine Statement’ of innovation. By seamlessly integrating a skeleton tourbillon into a movement housed within a mind-boggling slim 1.85 mm case, Bvlgari’s Swiss watchmaking division displays its mastery of horology through one of the craft’s most iconic complications….the Tourbillon, which symbolizes watchmaking precision, its perpetual motion echoing a beating heart.
Bvlgari pushes the boundaries of skeletonisation with this beautiful timepiece, maximizing light diffusion through the movement with refined modern finishes. Every exposed component strikes a fine balance between aesthetics and precision, demanding absolute perfection in design and execution. Its monochromatic grey aesthetic incorporates purity and minimalism, elevating ultra-thinness to a watchmaking complication in itself.
Now officially the thinnest tourbillon Watch ever, this Masterpiece measures just 1.85 mm thick with a 40 mm diameter. Powered by the BVF 900 calibre, it beats at 4 Hz and offers a 42-hour power reserve, a testament to Bvlgari’s engineering excellence.
At the heart of the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon lies a tungsten carbide main plate, seamlessly integrating the mechanical movement into the case, challenging traditional watchmaking norms. Historically, ultra-thin watches are always pursued for elegance, but achieving structural rigidity at such dimensions required groundbreaking material innovation. Bvlgari’s solution combines microbead-frosted titanium for the bezel, case middle, and lugs, with tungsten carbide for the main plate. Two subtly protruding stainless steel Planar ‘Crowns’—one for winding (8 o’clock) and one for setting the time (3 o’clock)—enhance functionality, while the circular-grained steel ratchet features geometric engravings. Unlike its predecessors, this model integrates rhodium-plated hour and minute hands on a single sandblasted brass dial with a DLC anthracite coating for optimal legibility.
Completing the design, the ultra-thin titanium bracelet, measuring just 1.5mm, mirrors the watch’s refined aesthetic, achieving a seamless balance between complexity and elegance.
A true testament to extreme finesse, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon reinforces Bvlgari’s unparalleled expertise in ultra-thin watchmaking. More than just a record-breaking achievement, it embodies a relentless pursuit of innovation.
With this latest masterpiece, Bvlgari continues to push the limits of refinement, cementing its legacy as a true pioneer in the art of ultra-thin horology.
Serpenti Aeterna
The iconic Serpenti enters a new era with its boldest evolution yet: Aeterna. Modern and avant-garde, Bvlgari’s legendary serpent is reimagined in its purest, most essential form, stylized to the extreme. A striking fusion of powerful geometry and innovative design, this original bracelet marks the beginning of a new chapter in the Serpenti legacy. It redefines Bvlgari’s iconic serpent with a futuristic aesthetic while honoring its heritage. This sculptural bangle, an eternal symbol of rebirth, seamlessly complements Bvlgari jewelry.
In 2025, the Year of the Snake, as per the Chinese Calendar, Bvlgari unveils Serpenti Aeterna, a bold high-jewelry transformation of its iconic serpent. Diamonds set over Gold enhance its radiant allure, embodying Bvlgari’s Italian elegance and pioneering spirit. It seamlessly blends heritage with modernity. Without the eyes, scales, and ruse, it is reduced to its purest, mesmerizingly authoritative form. It is crafted from Gold and artistically set with diamonds.
Since 1948, Serpenti has constantly evolved. A timeless icon, it seduces, enchants, and captivates, continuing to inspire desire through its ever-changing glamour.
With a single, fluid gesture, Serpenti Aeterna wraps elegantly around the wrist, blending gold’s sensuality with geometric precision. Its ingenious clasp mechanism ensures a seamless fit, perfected over two years of development. While its exterior remains minimalist, a profound connection to Serpenti’s heritage is revealed within—the iconic hexagonal scales, a hallmark of past designs, are subtly etched into the inner contour, an intimate tribute to its extraordinary legacy.
With Serpenti Aeterna, Bvlgari redefines timeless elegance. Unveiled in Rose Gold with Diamonds and a fully Pavé-set White Gold high-jewelry edition, it radiates brilliance, with precious gemstones illuminating the snow-set dial and spine. Oversized gems on the white gold version amplify its sculptural presence, enhancing its hypnotic allure.
Born from a single visionary gesture, Serpenti Aeterna is the purest expression of the icon—an avant-garde masterpiece designed to transcend time. More than a creation, it is an experience—to be worn today, cherished tomorrow, and destined for eternity.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN’S 270-Year Quest for Excellence
Founded in 1755 during the Age of Enlightenment, Vacheron Constantin has upheld a steadfast dedication to excellence for 270 years. This pursuit is reflected in its mastery of watchmaking, from technical innovations and precision craftsmanship to artistic beauty and the preservation of traditional skills.
In 2025, the Maison celebrates this legacy with a new communication campaign, visually capturing its ongoing journey for perfection. Musician Woodkid has composed a special piece dedicated to this quest. Additionally, Time is Art, a coffee-table book published in collaboration with Thames & Hudson, showcases the Maison’s artistry through the lens of four photographers. This exclusive book will be unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025, marking another milestone in Vacheron Constantin’s extraordinary journey.
At Watches & Wonders 2025, Vacheron Constantin once again reaffirms its place at the pinnacle of haute horlogerie. With over two and a half centuries of uninterrupted craftsmanship, the Maison continues to blend heritage and innovation, unveiling timepieces that embody the essence of refinement, precision, and artistry.
This year, in celebration of its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin presents special Signature Editions of its iconic Patrimony and Traditionnelle collections—exquisite expressions of timeless elegance and watchmaking mastery. Each creation is a reflection of the brand’s unwavering pursuit of excellence, where tradition meets modernity, and time itself becomes an expression of artistry.
Arriving at the Vacheron Constantin booth, a stunning array of timepieces awaited—each uniquely designed, many paying tribute to the 270th anniversary. Crafted exclusively in Platinum, White Gold, or Pink Gold, these watches house newly developed in-house calibres, reinforcing the Maison’s unmatched expertise. While numerous models stood out, three in particular captured my attention, and I’d like to highlight them.
Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date
A coveted treasure among Haute Horlogerie connoisseurs, the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date is available in 270-piece limited editions in both White gold and Pink gold. Powered by the self-winding manufacture Calibre 2460 R31L/270, it offers a 40-hour power reserve and displays the exquisite ‘côte unique’ finish along with an openworked 18K gold oscillating weight featuring the Maltese cross—visible through the sapphire caseback of its 42.5 mm case.
The silver-toned dial, adorned with the 270th anniversary motif, presents a beautifully balanced design: the retrograde date display—a Vacheron Constantin signature since the 18th century—sits elegantly at the top, while the moon-phase complication takes its place at six o’clock, housed within an aperture graduated from 0 to 29.5. Engineered for remarkable precision, this astronomical moon phase follows the Moon’s 29-day, 12-hour, and 45-minute cycle, requiring adjustment only once every 122 years—a demonstration to both tradition and technical mastery.
Traditionnelle Moon Phase 36mm
A captivating blend of elegance and precision, the Traditionnelle Moon Phase is poised to be a favorite among women, thanks to its refined Pink Gold case adorned with Diamonds and inherently graceful aesthetic. This 36 mm manual-wound timepiece, part of a 270-piece limited edition, is powered by the manufacture Calibre 1410 AS/270. Its astronomical moon phase complication, accurate to one day every 122 years, reflects the passage of time with poetic precision. The Mother-of-Pearl dial, featuring the 270th anniversary motif, is neatly complemented by small seconds at 6 o’clock and a 38-hour power reserve display.
With its delicate yet sophisticated appeal, this timepiece embodies the artistry and heritage of Vacheron Constantin.
Traditionnelle Manual-Winding 33mm
Another true masterpiece of elegance and refinement, the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding 33mm is destined to enchant women with its graceful 33 mm pink gold case, delicately set with diamonds. Its ultra-slim profile, measuring just 7.7 mm in thickness, enhances its sophisticated appeal. At the heart of this 270-piece limited edition beats the manufacture Calibre 1440/270, offering a 42-hour power reserve and adorned with the ‘côte unique’ finish and anniversary emblem. The Mother-of-Pearl dial, graced with the Maltese cross-inspired motif created for Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary, exudes a soft pink hue, perfectly complemented by a pink alligator strap—a harmonious blend of heritage, artistry, and timeless femininity.
Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface
The Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface fuses heritage and modernity in a striking contemporary design. Its openface construction showcases the intricate mechanics within, celebrating both technical mastery and aesthetic refinement. A signature of Vacheron Constantin’s craftsmanship, this timepiece features a harmonious interplay of traditional and modern finishes across the dial, calibre, and strap. Crafted from Platinum, often referred to as the metal of kings, it holds a revered place in prestige watchmaking, symbolizing ultimate refinement.
At its heart beats the manufacture Calibre 2460 QCL/270, a modern evolution of the Calibre 2450—Vacheron Constantin’s first entirely in-house self-winding complete calendar movement. This sophisticated calibre drives a triple calendar complication, displaying the day, date, and month, along with a precision moon-phase indicator that requires adjustment only once every 122 years. The partially openworked dial offers a glimpse into its 312-component self-winding mechanism, balancing transparency with clarity. For optimal legibility, the date is elegantly arranged around the dial’s periphery, indicated by a blued hand, while the day and month appear on sapphire discs, standing out vividly against the deep blue apertures—a perfect fusion of functionality and artistry.
This Piece is a true mechanical Masterpiece.
